When the Rocket steamer service first commenced its service in 1956, the vessels may have been some of the fastest water-borne vessels of their time. Eighty years and one refurbishment later, the four Rocket is still “hammering around the Delta,” as travel writer Jack Barker put it, and fortunately only one of the six original vessels is on the bottom of the Buriganga and four remain in operation to this very day. It is Bangladesh’s most well-known journey, and its sloth-like speed is actually quite a pleasure to enjoy.

Some lovely words from travel writer Nick Redmayne:

Take a rocket back to Dhaka and experience a PR opportunity that Richard Branson has inexplicably missed. Bangladesh has pioneered scheduled rocket travel since the 1920s and despite the propensity of other vessels to double as submarines, ‘Rocket’ paddle steamers offer a ride priced within reach of the common man and a safety record that beats the space shuttle hands down.

While I try not to plagiarize Nick’s words for my book, please enjoy this video tour of the ancient paddlewheel vessel, hosted by yours truly:

Some PS additions:

• There’s a paddle-wheel satellite now in operation, which probably did require a real rocket to get it there…
• Quoting from former diplomat Bobbie Bergesen, one realizes little has changed since she took the journey in 1976: Bangladesh can offer no more pleasant experience than that of being a Rocket passenger, watching the water curl endlessly out of the carved fretwork while being borne securely along to the steady throb of the paddles strongly churning (apologies to Walt Whitman).
• Want to book a ticket? If you’re in Motijheel you can go straight to the BIWTC office and get it yourself, a few days in advance is recommended. Otherwise if you’re based in Gulshan, Guide Tours can purchase the tickets for you, and with a small service charge you don’t have to worry about getting down to the BIWTC office. The BIWTC’s office is one block east of Dilkusha Circle I: 955 9779 or 891 4771. Guide Tours is located on Gulshan 2 Circle.
• Want to see some other videos? Click here.

Tags: Bangladesh,Destinations,Paddle Steamers,rivers,Rocket
Categories: Destinations, Sundarbans, Travel
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~story by Mikey Leung~

As of 22 March 2008, it is possible to obtain a “Landing Permit on Arrival” if you arrive in Dhaka with no visa. With $50 USD, you can simply buy this landing permit when you arrive at Zia International Airport, and you should be granted a 15-day stay.

However, please note that this could change at any time and without warning—such are the vagaries of the Bangladesh immigration system. The rules surrounding this landing permit are not published anywhere that we know of. We have only heard anecdotally that obtaining a landing permit has been done, and we have called the Airport Immigration to confirm this is the case. The Airport Immigration Phone Number at Zia Airport is +88 (02) 891 4226.

Searches on the internet show that the old rules used to claim that if you came from a country without a Bangladeshi mission, you would be able to obtain the landing permit. But there have been changes in the visa process under the caretaker government.

Whether or not you use the Landing Permit on Arrival system depends on whether or not you are the traveller who is willing to accept some degree of risk while you travel. Naturally, the safest option is to obtain a visa in your home country first, but if, for some circumstance of time and/or money you don’t get the visa, and you don’t need to stay in Bangladesh for longer than 15 days, a landing permit would certainly be easier than other potential bureaucratic speedbumps you could encounter at a Bangladeshi High Commission or Embassy.

From the Lonely Planet’s travel advice:

Please take care when choosing to buy the visa-on-arrival at the Dhaka airport. Except for being quite expensive ($50 for 15 days) the surrounding countries don’t accept this visa as it’s just a landing permit. You won’t be able to get a visa for India for instance because they say you don’t have a valid visa for Bangladesh. You can probably get one by extending your visa at the Immigration office for about $50 because then you should get an official visa. Should, because maybe it’s a renewal of the landing permit. But then it’s still the question whether you’re able to get a road permit to cross into India overland. So it could be wise to arrange your visa for Bangladesh beforehand, even if Biman Bangladesh Airlines says it’s not necessary.

If you do use it, it would be best to have your return ticket ready and proof that you are carrying enough cash for your visit to Bangladesh.

Then, please let us know if you have any difficulties. Also, do be aware that when you check in for your flight, you may need to explain to the airline representatives that you are getting a visa on arrival at Zia and you know that it is possible.

Good Luck! Please bear in mind that the rules in Bangladesh change all the time.

Tags: Bangladesh,Immigration Rules,Landing Permit,Visas,Zia International Airport
Categories: Travel, Visas
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VSO Canada is proud to present “Brothel Justice” - a short documentary film based on the lives of women living and working in a brothel in Bangladesh. See how these women are breaking through social and political barriers to empower themselves and make change.

Brothel Justice is a public engagement component of SCORE : Strengthening Communities’ Rights and Empowerment, a joint project of VSO Canada and its partners along with VSO Bangladesh and its affiliate community-based organizations.

Join us and meet the filmmakers and other volunteers from the project. Hear from a panel of guest speakers about their own experiences working with vulnerable communities in developing countries, including volunteers who worked with the sex workers at the brothel featured in the film.

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Tags: Bangladesh,Brothel Justice,documentaries,volunteering,VSO Canada
Categories: Events
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After many delays, interruptions, disagreements and a fence, the train ride between Kolkata and Dhaka will begin running again on 14 April.

The ride will no doubt become one of the great journeys you can take connecting the two countries, one that we will definitely be taking in the coming months.

From India’s Business Standard magazine:

Maitree Express to be flagged off from Kolkata to Dhaka on April 14.

After nearly half a century, passenger trains will start plying between India and Bangladesh again. Train services, which had stopped because of the 1965 Indo-Pak war when Bangladesh was still a part of Pakistan, are all set to resume again.

Please let us know if you do end up riding the train and telling us how it went!

Tags: Bangladesh,dhaka,India,Kolkata,Maitree Express,trains
Categories: Travel
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~story by Mikey Leung~

Dhaka is a safe place, when you know how to play by its rules.

Nonetheless, there have been a incidences of muggings and robberies, and bag snatching among the expatriate community, particularly in the Gulshan and Mohammadpur areas.

I hate to sound patronizing, but single females, moving around at night (usually but not always after 10pm), seem to be the biggest target. I have heard of far too many incidences now where a single expatriate female was riding a rickshaw, only to fall victim to drive-by bag snatchings. Some of these women have been pulled off the rickshaw entirely and dragged for several meters. I have noticed that several of these occurrences have occurred at night, on quiet or busy roads, but there is one common thread between them all: a single female is often the target victim.

After a few months of keeping tabs of the incidents, I would like to make a few security recommendations here. Once again, I do believe Dhaka is a safe place when you know how to play by its rules. Of course, these suggestions apply to both women and men, but women are more often the target victims, according to what I’ve heard and kept track of.

Here are my suggestions:

• Solo females should NOT travel around at night, by rickshaw, after 9-10pm. If they must travel, it is best to go in groups.
• Be vigilant while travelling/walking and keep aware of your surroundings. An alert-looking person, whose head is up and is watching the environment around them, presents less of a target than someone who is lost in their own world.
• Bags should be kept off the shoulder, so that if a bag snatching does occur, there is no risk of being dragged, which has actually caused the more serious injury in these incidences.
• A common myth is that poverty spawns these crimes, but in reality that bag snatching crimes are often committed by people with vehicles, which people in poverty cannot afford. It is theorized that it is actually young men, some of whom may be addicted to drugs, commit these crimes and have the means (i.e. a vehicle) to do so.
• If travelling out of the city at night, it is best not to accept food or drinks from strangers at train stations or bus stands, unless you see the drink being made or the food being prepared. In a recent theft, we heard of a drugging that knocked a single female unconscious. It would be a mistake to proclaim that all hospitality offered by strangers is malicious, especially in Bangladesh. But, by being aware of where a drink or food comes from, you can protect yourself.

The Canadian Travel Report for Bangladesh provides some decent advice on the same issue:

Pickpocketing, purse snatching, and mugging are common, especially in areas frequented by tourists and when travelling by rickshaw or baby taxi (motorized pedicabs). Unaccompanied women face the highest risk. Physical and verbal harassment of women can be a problem.

Do not walk alone after dark. Victims of crime should contact the High Commission of Canada in Dhaka for assistance before filing a police report. Women should not go to police stations alone.

Do you have any security suggestions to share? Please post your comments.

Tags: Bangladesh,dhaka,muggings,personal safety,robberies,security advice,Security Suggestions,theft,Travel
Categories: Security Suggestions, Travel
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~story by Mikey Leung~

There are some rare moments as a guidebook writer that I am given a chance to enjoy the peace and serenity offered to me by the natural beauty of Bangladesh, and I try to seek out these experiences whenever possible.

One of these rare moments came as I sat on the terrace outside my room at the Nazimgarh Resort. The highway traffic hummed from a distance, but my attention remain fixed on the sound of a dozen different birds chattering away in the trees, most of whom were winter migrants like my Canadian self. I had just taken a stroll around the well-tended grounds of the resort. The sun broke through the winter morning clouds, painting the nearby mango trees in a golden hue.

In short, I felt my soul replenishing.

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 Nazim Kamran Chowdhury -- Introduction [10:03m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download (223)

 

 Nazim Kamran Chowdhury -- reflections on responsible tourism development [9:13m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download (199)

Tags: Bangladesh,luxury,monsoon tourism,Nazimgarh Resorts,rivers,Sylhet
Categories: Destinations, Interviews, Responsible Travel
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Some recent controversy has arisen over the work of the Sundarbans Tiger Project, a conservation project based in the Bangladesh side of the Sundarbans.

The issue mainly stems over whether the project is doing good by learning the habits of the majestic animal, or contributing to its demise. Its opponents argue that the drug used in the tranquilizing damages the tiger’s central nervous system. Hossain writes:

Sundarban is a unique place and also the only great ecosystem in the world where Bengal tigers live in saline water system. Life of a wild tiger is extremely challenging and very much depends on the physical and psychological integrity of the animal. For zoo or captive tigers physical wellbeing is enough for her survival. But for a wild animal her physical and psychological performance together only can ensure her survival. There has not been any pharmacological research to find how the above chemicals will affect specially the Sundarban tiger that drinks salt water and eat the intestine of the kill full of mangrove vegetation. Before this research is done and proven safe, there should be no other application of those drugs on healthy tigers in the wild.

However, researchers on the project argue that there is no evidence that the drug causes said damage, and that radio-collaring is an absolutely necessary tool in discovering the habits of the tiger, so that managers can make proper decisions as to its conservation. Adam Barlow writes:

The media has great potential to help in raising awareness about tiger conservation and to garner public support for this precious animal. Conversely, it also has the power to damage tiger conservation by negative and subjective reporting that confuses issues and seemingly deliberately tries to hamper people’s heartfelt and well-thought out efforts to protect the tiger. Surely the job of the newspaper is to provide objective reports on stories so that the Bangladeshi people can use the balanced information to make informed views on a subject.

You can read more from the following links:

• Collaring for Conservation, Adam Barlow’s retort (word document, 300KB).
• Click here for the link to the full article, “Immature science in immature hands?”
• Click here for the link to the original story.

It is our opinion that collaring is necessary and needed for the proper management of the Sundarbans and its wildlife, especially for the Royal Bengal Tiger, who is the chosen mascot of Bangladesh. Without solid research to back up forest management policies, the tigers stand at great risk to human interference. Given the lack of proper management that the forest department has had in episodes previous, we feel that appropriate, international standard scientific research will help conserve one of the last remaining wild places Bangladesh has.

Here’s a video showing the process of capturing the tiger:

Have feedback? Please let us know by commenting.

Tags: Bangladesh,Man-eating Tigers,Radio Collaring,Sundarbans,Sundarbans Tiger Project
Categories: Editorials, Responsible Travel, Sundarbans
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